Motoring the Mo
By KURT WILSON of the Missoulian
Watch the VIDEO JOURNAL of Kurt's trip down the Missouri River.
It was a good plan.
Sometime during the January doldrums, we decided that a trip on the famed Smith River would be the proper way to launch spring. Our experience with the permitting process was that Smith River float permits for the middle of April are relatively easy to get, and two years ago an April float turned out to be a perfect time to be on the river.
Three of us applied. Out of a record number of applicants, all three of us were granted permits scheduled for the end of the second week in April.
Our rafting plans sunk, however, when we were notified near the end of March that the river was to remain closed until after our permit date because of higher-than-usual snowpack and colder-than-normal temperatures. The river was impassable for long stretches because of ice.
We were left with a river trip, but no river.
Friday, April 11, 1:07: We approach Citadel Rock, a prominent landmark recorded by Lewis and Clark but not named by them. The area is one of the most prominent features on this stretch of the river, made even more recognizable by artist Karl Bodmer’s image, made in 1833 from the downriver side of the towering rock while he was aboard the keelboat Flora.
KURT WILSON/Missoulian
So we looked to slower waters and, at the last minute, hatched a new plan to float a section of the Wild and Scenic-designated Missouri River near Fort Benton. Instead of loading our gear into rubber rafts, rowing and fly-fishing our way down the clear and winding waters of the Smith, we would pack four people, three outboard motors, two sets of oars, three tents, multiple coolers, food boxes, several layers of warm clothing and one spinning rod into two boats and motor down the wide and muddy Missouri. Ours was not a quest to mimic the undaunted courage of the Corps of Discovery. We did, however, plan to pitch tents for both nights in areas where the Corps had camped more than 200 years ago.
We were warned that our early launch date assured us of low water and cold winds. But, we were told, abundant wildlife would be the benefit. And, we were promised, “You'll have the river to yourselves.”
And so it was that we launched at Coal Banks Landing on a fine afternoon (planned for the morning, but became the afternoon after an adventure with a flat tire and a side trip to Big Sandy). Over the three days, we traveled 46 miles on “Old Misery,” serenaded by Canada geese and meadowlarks. We were bathed in sunshine for the most part, with occasional light winds and cold nights. We watched muskrats, coyotes, deer and, soaring overhead, bald eagles, hawks and white pelicans.
In a year, the Bureau of Land Management estimates that more than 8,000 people float these waters. In the middle of April, though, we had the river to ourselves and after clamoring off the river at Judith Landing, we made a toast to well-laid plans.
Reach photography editor Kurt Wilson at (406) 523-5244 or by e-mail at kwilson@missoulian.com.
Thursday, April 10, 11:20: Packed heavily with all of our gear and two boats, our borrowed trailer did fine until we turned off on the gravel road to the river and immediately tore a hole in one tire. The spare, which can be seen on the trailer, is padlocked on and no one in our party has the key. A hacksaw that we brought just in case of an event like this has just broken in two. Our plans to be on the river this morning are delayed, as we are off to Big Sandy to secure more tools and to repair our flat.
Thursday, April 10, 5:30: We are happy to have the boats unloaded and the tents pitched, with only 30 minutes of the cocktail hour missed. While our trouble with the flat tire caused some delay in getting on the river, we were still able to make our first day's destination of Eagle Creek and camp near the site used by Lewis and Clark's party on May 31, 1805. Having nearly overturned their pirogue on that day and to reward the men for their hard work, Lewis writes that at noon they “came to for refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much cheerfulness, and well deserved.”
Friday, April 11, 12:30: There was some question whether migrating pelicans would be on the river during our float, so we were excited to see a small group during our second day. As they took flight off the water, they quickly rose to great heights, but even at a distance, they could easily be seen against the horizon.
Friday, April 11, 2:50: We passed the Seven Sisters, a sandstone structure that is said to represent seven nuns in their habits. Bodmer painted this as well in 1833, and it appears to have been far more distinct before another 175 years of erosion have softened its lines.
Saturday, April 12, 11:30: “You'll have the river to yourselves,” we were told by the shuttle driver and river guide, who accepted our check as his first for the season. It's been a little less than two days since leaving the tire shop in Big Sandy and the last person we would see until we passed this fishing party on the bank near the Judith River. Their presence signaled that the end was near for our short river trip, and we throttled the motors toward the takeout at Judith Landing.
Plan a float
For information about the Missouri River Breaks National Monument and the Wild and Scenic river go to http://www.blm.gov/mt/st/en/fo/lewistown_field_office/UM.html or call the Lewistown Field Office at (406) 538-1900.
