Western Montana Getaway: Bannack Ghost Town offers peek at past
Bannack Ghost Town: Once the territorial capital of Montana, the town was all but abandoned by the 1940s.
Photo by BRETT FRENCH/Gazette Staff
By BRETT FRENCH Billings Gazette
BANNACK - The town of Bannack was a contender, its rise meteoric. And just as quickly, its downfall precipitous.
Back in 1862, the mining town burst into existence in southwestern Montana when John White discovered gold in Grasshopper Creek, the first major gold discovery in the territory.
In the heat of the ensuing gold rush, the town boomed from 400 people to 3,000 in six months. A year later, the town became the territorial capital of Montana. Eventually it boasted a brewery, hotel, Masonic Lodge, bowling alley and brick courthouse.
But then the gold played out, the railroad stopped in Dillon, and before long the town shriveled up. Thirty years later, the once-thriving town was on the downturn and by the 1940s was all but abandoned.
Luckily, local historians pitched in to save the town and in 1954 Bannack and its more than 50 buildings were turned over to the state for preservation and protection.
Bannack got its name from the Bannock Indians of the region, who are affiliated with the Shoshone Tribe. The change in spelling may have been due to an incorrectly read application for the town's post office, which was established in 1863.
It's interesting that even on a bright fall day, walking down the town's boardwalks, looking at the abandoned buildings and reading about the history of the town makes a person feel a bit creepy. After all, this ghost town was where the notorious Sheriff Henry Plummer started his gang of about 25 outlaws called the "Innocents." They chose that name, according to a state history, because they agreed to plead innocent if they were ever caught.
By some estimates, Plummer and his gang robbed and murdered more than 100 people before being caught and hung for their crimes by a group of vigilantes.
Plummer must have been in good company. Early day newspaper publisher Thomas Dimsdale wrote, "It is probable that there never was a mining town of the same size that contained more desperados and lawless characters than did Bannack during the winter of 1862-63."
It's interesting to calculate the prosperity of the boom town by converting wages and prices back then to what they would be now. According to historical accounts, in the first five months of its existence the town produced $500,000 in gold that was 95 percent pure. In today's dollars, that amount is equal to more than $10.8 million. Miners were earning an average of $5 a day, which converts to more than $100 today.
But like all remote mining towns, supplies were also expensive. Mary Edgerton, wife of the first governor of the territory, Sidney Edgerton, wrote that sugar was 75 cents a pound, equal to $16 a pound now, while nutmegs were 50 cents an ounce, or more than $10.
Although ignored by visitors for much of the year, Bannack comes alive during the summer. Bannack Days, held the third weekend in July, features demonstrations of pioneer skills, a black powder shoot, music and guided tours.
For those making the excursion to visit this park, there is a campground on the way into town so you don't have to rush your visit.
For more info:
The state Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks is in charge of running the 1,500-acre Bannack State Park. The agency is assisted by the Bannack Association. For more information on the group, or to join, log on to http://www.bannack.org.
The park's visitor center offers tours and is open from Memorial Day through Labor Day.
Camping is available at a site along Grasshopper Creek. The cost is $12 a day. A tepee can be rented between May 1 and Sept. 30 at the campground for $25 a night. Reservations are suggested and can be made by calling 406-834-3413.
Visitation to the park is free for residents who pay the state parks fee when they license their vehicle. The cost for out-of-state visitors or those who waive the fee is $5.
To reach Bannack State Park, take Interstate 15 south of Dillon to exit No. 59 (Highway 278 exit). Drive west on Highway 278 for 18 miles. Turn south onto Bannack Road and travel four miles.
Brett French can be reached at french@billingsgazette.com or at 657-1387
